Weft and warp.Anatolia, at loom speed.
Trama is the weft — the thread that travels. Warp is the thread that waits, held under tension, giving the cloth its spine. Everything we make sits at that crossing: a craft tradition that has run in Anatolia for four thousand years, cut into one honest modern garment.
Each collection is one garment: one sweatshirt, one price. This is the twelfth. We make 90 a month, each with its own registered number, and when a month's run is spoken for, the next warp goes on the loom.
Eleven collections exist before this one, and every piece of every one of them carries its own series number — a C block and a W block, registered in our database. Owners can verify any number, and they are offered Collection 012 before anyone else.
Ten things that make it premium
One field, one valley, one grade
The cotton comes from a single rain-fed cooperative in the Söke valley near the Aegean, graded by hand for staple length above 32 millimetres. We buy the top grade of a small harvest rather than an average of a large one, which is why the run has a size at all.
Ring-spun slowly, twisted softly
The yarn is ring-spun rather than open-end, at a lower twist than industry standard. It is a slower, more wasteful way to spin, and it is the difference between fleece that feels like cloth and fleece that feels like foam.
480 gsm loopback, run at low tension
Loopback means the inside of the cloth is a field of open loops, not brushed pile — it breathes, it does not shed, and it keeps its hand for a decade. Knitted on shuttle frames from the 1970s that produce about eighteen metres an hour.
Dyed with madder root and walnut
Natural dyes in copper vats, mordanted with alum, fixed over three days. Nothing about it is fast: two shades of the same batch are never identical, and the cloth ages by lightening rather than by going grey.
A kilim band inside the collar
Neck taping woven on a hand loom in Gaziantep, in a geometric motif taken from a nineteenth-century saddlebag in a family collection. The weaver is credited by name on the garment card. It faces inward — authenticity is not a print on the chest.
Hand-linked rib, chainstitched seams
Cuffs, hem and collar are hand-linked rather than overlocked, so they stretch and recover with the body. Side seams are chainstitched on a Union Special from 1954: a seam that ropes slightly with age, the way it is supposed to.
Three a day, and no way to make more
One cutter, one linker, one finisher: the atelier completes three garments a day, and that is its whole capacity. We have never added a shift, because the person who chainstitches the seams is the only person we trust to chainstitch the seams.
Garment-washed once, then rested
Each piece is washed in soft Anatolian water and rested flat for seventy-two hours before finishing. It arrives already settled — the shape you receive is the shape you keep.
A series number, registered for life
Every piece of every collection carries an individual series number — a C block and a W block, e.g. C034W312 — woven into the tape inside the left seam and entered in our database before it leaves the atelier. Anyone can check it before buying, and owners use it to claim priority on the next collection.
Repaired for as long as you wear it
Twelve percent of the price is held as a repair reserve. Send it back for darning, re-linking or re-dyeing, for as long as the garment exists. A sweatshirt made this way should be the last one you buy.
Nine people, one room, no subcontractors
Spinning, dyeing, knitting, cutting and finishing happen within forty kilometres of each other in Denizli and Gaziantep. Everyone who touches the garment is named on the card that ships with it, and paid above the regional textile wage by agreement, not by claim.
- Threading · tie-up · treadling
- Drawdown — warp over weft
Where the price goes
| Stage | Where | Share of cost |
|---|---|---|
| Rain-fed long-staple cotton, hand-graded | Söke, Aydın | 18% |
| Ring spinning and natural dyeing | Denizli | 14% |
| Slow loopback knitting, vintage frames | Denizli | 21% |
| Hand-loomed kilim taping | Gaziantep | 9% |
| Cut, link, chainstitch, finish — 14 hours | Denizli | 26% |
| Lifetime repair reserve, sleeve, shipping | — | 12% |